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Evgeniy Glazunov

Evgeniy Glazunov

Mountaineering Guide

Biography

Born on December 30, 1987 in Irkutsk

In the mountains since 2002. Master of sports in mountaineering.
Discipline Sports climbing.
Champion of Russia 2013, 2016, 2020.
12 medals of the Russian Alpinism Championships
Master of Sports of Russia in Ship Modeling
CIS Champion 2022 in the class of remote controlled FPV models
CCM in ice climbing in the discipline of speed
Champion of the Mongolian People’s Republic in speed 2019
Winner of the Russian Cup Stage in speed 2019

Conducted several research expeditions with first ascents of new
climbing routes in various regions of Siberia and Central Asia
Author of 27 first ascents as a leader
In the style of “solo” passed 6 most difficult wall routes.
About 100 routes of 5-6 difficulty category
Most of them were climbed in non-stop style, without overnight stays, bivouac equipment and
processing, small group.

Five ascents of seven-thousanders, including technical ones.
Trainer since 2010.
5th year student of the Russian State University of Physical Culture.
Prepared several participants from zero to climbing sixes.
Experience as a guide on technical and high-altitude ascents, from classical
to the most difficult routes.
I work both on classical routes, as well as individually in various mountainous areas.
Drone operator: experience in flying up to 7000 meters, high-altitude surveys, rescue and
search operations using UAVs.
Author of the projects “Mountains of Baikal”, “Impossible is not forever”
Compiler of the Guide to the Eastern Sayan

Ascents

7000
ED3 and higher
Solo Routes
ED/ED+
First ascents TD+/ED
TD+/ED
First ascents TD/ED
TD/ED

• Lenin (7134 m.) – 2006
• Lenin (7134 m.) – 2016
• Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m.) – 2016
• Communism (7495 m.) – 2016
• Khan-Tengri (6995 m.) Sviridenko route 6B – 2016

• Erydag Voronina
• Aksu (C) (5217 m.) Moshnikova, in winter
• Khan-Tengri (6995 m.) Sviridenko

• Morcheka Kensitsky 5B
• Foros Kant Center 6A
• Morcheka Orel 5B
• Sergey Glazunov Peak
• first ascent 5B
• Gaykomd Dorro 6A
• Dome “Blade” 6A
• Battleship 4A frisolo

• Dream First Ascent
• Erydag Efimova
• Free Korea Ruchkina Direct in winter in one day
• Free Korea Ruchkin Folk
• Crown 5 Balezina
• Tsar’s Throne winter first ascent
• Cruiser Varyag Kolesova -2 passage, in winter
• Star Khvostenko
• Gaykomd Ivanova in winter
• Dome “Blade” Afanasyev – 3 times
• Chanchakhi Popova
• Dome of Afanasyev “perforator” – 2 passage
• Shan-Kai Hyperborea
• Morcheka DLS
• Morcheka Skyway
• Morcheka Machombo
• Morcheka Rainy season
• Morcheka Center

• Dream – first ascent
• Sauk-Jailau 1
• Bychechekey
• Chon-Tor
• North
• Maps
• Admiralty

• Dome “7” – 4 ascents
• Table Afanasiev -3rd walkthrough
• Mamisson Grigorenko-Prigoda
• Free Korea Barbera
• Crown 5 Sadovsky
• Crown 1 Plotnikov in winter in one day
• Dynamo-Tykhen, 2 ascents
• Box-Baylyan traverse in Winter
• Star Balezina on bastions -3 walkthrough
• Dragon Tooth Railko -3 walkthrough
• Star Balezina (7)
• Guardian Khvostenko
• Black Davy
• Argada Kolesova Mirror – non-stop in winter
• Akkaya Roshko, 2nd playthrough
• Akkaya Bershova
• Akkaya Sharova
• Blok Petrichenko
• Feather Grekov
• Star Balezina
• Morcheka Stolb
• Morcheka Classic -2 up
• Morchek Hip Line
• Kilse Burun “Three Cornices”

• Aktoo
• Home
• Gaykomd Central
• Deceptive – first ascent
• Kart in deuce with Syshchikov
• Shishkin Navel
• Battleship (Afanasiev)
• Deceitful tooth (Boyko)
• Charskie Zori in pair with Boyko
• Yamaat Bayar and Lyokha

• Baichechekey Schwab route
• Soan
• Urech
• Dangerous Afanasieva
• Battleship 4 times
• Pushkarev’s Dragon Tooth 2 times

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