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Route to Lenin Peak (7134 m.)

Route to Lenin Peak (7134 m.)

You can either read the text description of the route or watch the video review. You can also download GPS points (at the end of the article) for 2022.

The route to Lenin Peak (programs are here) starts from the Pamir International Mountaineering Camp, you need to cross the river and move along a road to Onion glade for about 4 km. on foot, but can also be reached by car.

Further along a good path through the Puteshestvennikov (Travelers) Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin Glacier to Camp 1 (ABC) about 4-5 hours on foot.

Camp 1 is located on the moraine of the Lenin glacier. Before entering the moraine, it is necessary to cross several rivers. It is advisable to leave as early as possible, as the rivers overflow closer to noon.

Climbers usually leave Camp 1 for Camp 2 at 3 AM to avoid the heat and muddy snow. Having crossed the moraine, then we move along the closed glacier and approach the foot of the Northern Slope. Here you need to make a rope teams and put on crampons.

NB! The length of the rope between climbers in a rope team must be at least 10 meters!

Climbing along the center of the steep North Slope, to the left of the icefall, bypassing and passing through numerous ice cracks. The most dangerous and difficult places will be fixed with railings. At the top of the ascent, the route goes to the right, up to a vast ice plateau called in Russian “Skovorodka”, or frying pan in Enginsh. We cross the plateau from left to right. There, on the surface moraine at the base of the North-West Ridge, at an altitude of 5300 meters, Camp 2 is located. Here you can relax a little, take a breath, drink tea from a thermos. But since recently spending the night at Camp 2 at 5300 meters has been fraught with inconvenience – there are too many cracks around, so our path lies further – to Camp 2, which will now be installed in a safer place at an altitude of 5600 meters, located on the North-West crest. Here you will find established tents and great views of the surrounding mountains. The average time to pass the section from Camp 1 to Camp 2 at 5600 m is 8-10 hours.

From Camp 2, the route along the gentle North-Western ridge goes up to the steep rise of Razdelnaya Peak. Camp 3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at an altitude of 6100 meters.  The way from Camp 2 to Camp 3 takes about 3-5 hours.

From Camp 3 you need to go down to the saddle and climb the wide Western ridge of Lenin Peak along a steep ascent. On the ridge, at an altitude of 6400 meters, it is possible to put Camp 4. Further, keeping to the left side of the ridge, move to the top. Having overcome a steep (45 degrees) ice rise 80 meters long, called the “Knife”, and passing to the right of the rocks, you cross a vast flat snow field – the “Parachutists’ Plateau”. After the plateau, the route to the summit goes along gentle rocky pre-summit hills, there are five of them, and each of them seems to be a peak. Keep to the left. There are no obvious landmarks here, in conditions of insufficient visibility it is easy to get lost, but the trail will be marked with landmarks, which should help you even in bad weather. At the top there is a bust of Vladimir Lenin.

An important safety rule: if you have not reached the summit by 14:00, you must immediately start descending to Camp 3!


*ATTENTION! Please note that the route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 changes every year due to the constant movement of glaciers. The GPS points listed in the link were saved in 2022. We will try to update the data as often as possible.


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