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Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak

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32 days
Availability : 27 July - 27 August
Dushanbe
Moskvina BC
Min Age : 18+
Program for Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak
*it's just the basic program and it can be changed

Asia Outdoor team invites to join us in Communism and Korzhenevskaya peaks expedition!

This is one of the best option for continuing your Pamir adventure after the ascent to Lenin Peak. 

Communism (Somoni) peak route description

Starting from the Base Camp located at Moskvina Glade (4360m), the route follows a clearly marked path along the moraine of the Walter Glacier until it intersects with the Helipad area. Upon crossing the glacier, the route leads to a broad and gently sloping snow shelf that directly leads to Borodkin’s rib. The Snow Pillow, which refers to the middle and upper part of the shelf, is prone to ice falls, so it’s recommended to traverse this part of the route as early in the morning as possible.

Upon reaching the exit point to the rib, you’ll encounter a small rocky section typically fitted with railings. Camp 1 can be established at an altitude of 5100m. You’ll then need to climb the moderate slope to the snowy slope on the “Chest” (6300m), which is susceptible to avalanches. Afterward, descend and establish Camp 2 (6100m) on the Pamir Firnovy Plateau.

The following day, after spending the night under the “Breasts,” cross the plateau and begin ascending to the jumper between Dushanbe Peak and the peak mass of Somoni Peak (Communism) along the gentle snowy slopes of Dushanbe Peak. Camp 3 (6900 m) is usually located at the assault point, while intermediate camps can be established at altitudes ranging from 6400m to 6600m.

Upon reaching Camp 3, you’ll need to cross the lintel and proceed beneath the steep snow-ice slope “Shovels,” along which you’ll need to climb 400m to reach the sharp summit ridge that leads to the summit (7495m). The descent typically takes two days.

Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) peak route description

Ascending the mountain begins at Moskvina glade (4360 m) with a marked path that leads to a canyon before continuing along the trail and bypassing the base of the southern spur. A steep scree slope leads to Camp 1 (5100 m), located on a rocky slope with ample space for tents. Camp 2 (5800 m) is located at the base of the southwestern wall on a snow pillow, protecting from stones. The 6400 m section is steep, with rocks, ice and snow, but is usually equipped with railings. Camp 3 (6400 m) is a snowfield, allowing for the installation of a large number of tents.

Climbers will traverse a long section to the right under the rocks, ending with a climb that leads to a small snowy saddle at the base of the southern summit ridge. The last section involves a series of ups and downs, totaling approximately 700 meters. Climbers must exercise caution on the ridge and steep snowy take-offs. The rock tower is bypassed on the right, and the summit (7105 m) is accessed through a snowy platform. After climbing, climbers spend the night at Camp 3 (6400 m), then descend to Base Camp the next day.

27 JulyArrival in Dushanbe. Overnight at the hotel.

Arrival to the airport. You will be met by the guide of Asia Outdoor Club. He will give you all necessary documents. Transfer to the hotel.

28 JulyTransfer to Jirgital (7 hours). Overnight at the guest house or in the tent.

After breakfast the driver will take you from the hotel and transfer you to Jirgital, the place from where the helicopter flies to Moskvina Base Camp. Accommodation in a Guest House or in the tents.

29 JulyFlight to Moskvina Base Camp (4360m).

Today we will have the helicopter flight from Jirgital to Moskvina glade, where Base Camp of Communism and Korzenevskaya peaks is located. Today you can discuss with your guide the plans for the upcoming expedition.

30 JulyPreparation day, acclimatization on Moskvina Glade.

Today we have hiking in the area and preparation for the expedition.

31 JulyAcclimatization in Base Camp

We continue our acclimatization in Base Camp. The proper acclimatization is a very important thing in the high altitude mountaineering and we are always reccommend to prepare your organism for the altitude as well as possible.

1 AugustAcclimatization hike to Vorobyov peak (5691m). Overnight at an altitude of 5300m.

After breakfast we start acclimatization climbing to Vorobyov Peak (5691 m.) and we will have an acclimatization night on 5300 meters.

2 AugustDescent to the BC.

Descent to Base Camp after the night on Vorobyov peak.

3 AugustRest day.

Resting in Base Camp and preparation for the climbing to Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m.)

4 AugustAscent to Camp 1 (5300 m.)

Climbing to Camp 1 on 5300 m. Accommodation in tents.

5 AugustAscent to Camp 2 (6400 m.)

Climbing to Camp 2 (6400 m.) and accommodation in tents.

6 AugustSummit day to Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m.)

Ascent to the summit of Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m.), descent to Camp 2. Overnight.

7 AugustDescent to BC.

In the morning we start our descent to Moskvina Base Camp. Rest.

8 AugustRest day.

Resting in Base Camp. Today you can discuss with the guide your next steps and ascent to Communism Peak. Preparation of the equipment for the climbing.

9 AugustPreparation day.

We continue our preparation for the ascent and have some training before going up.

10 AugustAscent to Camp 1 (5100 m.-5300 m.)

Climbing up to Camp 2 of Communism (Somoni) peak. Installing our tents and accommodation in them.

11 AugustAscent to Camp 2 (5900 m.)

Climbing to Camp 2 and installing our tents. Rest.

12 AugustAscent to Camp 3 (6100 m.)

Climb to Camp 3, installing tents and rest.

13 AugustAscent to Camp 4 (6900 m.)

 Today we will climb to Camp 4, install tents and rest before the summit push that will be tomorrow.

14 August Ascent to the summit of Communism Peak (7495m).

Today we will have our ascent to the summit of Communsim (Somoni) Peak (7495 m.). After the ascent we will return back to our Camp 4 on 6900 m. Rest.

15 AugustDescent to Camp 1 (5100 m.-5300 m.)

Return to Camp 1 on 5100-5300 m., install tents and rest.

16 AugustReturn to Moskvina Base Camp

Today we will return to Base Camp on Moskvina glade. Rest and getting congratulations with successful ascents.

17-25 AugustRest or reserve days

As Tajik side have only 4 dates for helicopter flights we will have about 9 days for a free use. These 9 days we can always use as a reserve days in case of a bad weather or for a rest between two programs.

26 AugustFlight back to Jirgital. Transfer to Dushanbe.

Today we will have the helicopter flight back to Jirgital and transfer to Dushanbe. Accommodation in a hotel.

27 AugustFlight back home.

In the morning the driver will take you to the airport for your flight home.

The cost of Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak expedition
The price of the expedition on both Communism (Somoni) and Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) peaks in 2024 – on request
The cost includes:

Mountain guide service
Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Dushanbe
Accommodation in Dushanbe in the hotel (2 nights)
Transfer to/from the hotel
Transfer Dushanbe – airport Jirgital and back
Accommodation in Jirgital in a guest house (1 night)
Helicopter flight Jirgital – Moskvina BC – Jirgital (35 kg per person is included, extra kilo costs 5 USD/kg)
Accommodation in BC in heated rooms
Meals in BC – full board
Set of high altitude products
Mountain route consultancy
First aid and consultation of doctor in BC
Infrastructure in BC (gadget charging, storage room)
Free usage of hot shower and sauna (1 time a week), toilet at BC
Registration in the rescue team
Supplying with the radio contact on the route
Usage of fixed ropes on the route
Border permit and OVIR registration in Tajikistan
Ecology fee

The cost doesn’t include:

The cost of Tajik visa
International flights
All additional deviations from the main route
Meals in Dushanbe and Jjirgital
Supplement for single accommodation in the hotel
Early check-in / late check-out at the hotel
Drinks and meals not included in the main menu
All personal expenses (additional baggage charges, room service, medical expenses, etc.)
Formalization of insurance policy
Rent of equipment
Gas cartridges

Additional information

About Insurance

Each member of the expedition to Communism (Somoni) Peak and Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak must necessarily make an insurance policy. First of all, it will help you in case of an incident during your trip.
 
Basic insurance requirements below:
1. the insurance assistance company must not be a GLOBAL VOYAGER.
2. insurance must include “ALPINISM” (above 7000 m.)
3. host country must be indicated: Tajikistan
4. the total amount of coverage of the policy is NOT LESS than 30,000 USD
5. the dates of the insurance policy must coincide with the dates of expedition in Tajikistan
6. the insurance policy must cover at least “first aid” and “transport of the injured by helicopter if necessary” (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

List of the equipment

Please, check the list of the equipment clicking on this text. In the article you will find all needed equipment for Lenin Peak expedition with a approximate examples, but this list is also perfect for Communism and Korzhenevskaya peaks expedition.

Porter services

Porter service:
4200 m. – 5300 m. – 10 USD/kg.
5300 m. – 5800 m. – 14 USD/kg.
5800 m. – 6300 m. – 20 USD/kg.

Additional service in Moskvina Base Camp

Gas cartridge 230 gr. – 10 USD/pc. / Gas cartridge 440 gr. – 20 USD/pc.
Rent of high altitude tent – 80 USD per program.
Accommodation in high altitude tents (on Korzhenevskaya (Ozodi) Peak only – 5300 m. and 5800 m.) – 80 USD/tent/night.
Internet – 5 USD per hour
Accommodation in BC on Moskvina Glade – 25 USD per tent per night
Breakfast – 20 USD/pers.
Lunch – 25 USD/pers.
Dinner – 25 USD/pers.

Map
*click on the image to enlarge
Photos

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